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🤑 Drilled Brake Drums

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The substantial improvement in braking you will feel and the warranty that is included with every performance drilled and slotted brake rotor, is worth the upgrade over stock replacement rotors. The Difference Between Semi Metallic and Ceramic Brake Pads. When deciding what brake pads are best for your vehicle, there are many factors to consider.
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Drilling brake drums WILL increase the likelyhood of them cracking - if for no other reason than the fact that they are now weakened. Franz, Sorry I misunderstood your post - my bad. As far as "backing off" - get a grip. Modifying brake drums is serious business.

Drilled And Slotted Rotors! Are They Worth It?

Chrome Brakes® offers a lineup of drilled and slotted brake rotors, available in a wide range of colors.To start with, the iron used to form Chrome brake rotors is cast with a high graphite content that resists heat buildup, and rotor centers are ventilated to allow cooling air to flow through.
I was wondering if anyone here's ever cross-drilled their rear brake drums. I've seen drilled drums for sale, and I know it's an old hot-rodder trick, so I'd like some tips on doing my own. On my stock car, I've removed the handbrake and self adjusting mechinisms in the rear brakes. I adjust them often, to make them come on soon, and come on hard.
I wonder why most high end cars (Ferrari, BMW, Corvette, Audi) come with cross drilled/slotted rotors? The fact is:-Cross drilled holes degas brake pads and decrease rotor heat -reduces fade and make your braking system more efficient.
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brake rotors- blank, slotted or drilled? - Motor Vehicle Maintenance & Repair Stack Exchange Drilled and slotted brake drums

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Slotted Brake Rotor Kit. Slotted brake rotors have always been a great alternative for improving braking without the drilled holes. Brake Performance created this kit to give improved stopping power over factory rotors while reducing heat, noise, pad fade and brake dust.
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Drilled & Slotted performance rotors for maximum cooling. Rotors (except for hub assemblies) are zinc plated for maximum protection against rust. Includes ceramic brake lubricant and premium stainless steel hardware kit.
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Street Performance Drilled and Slotted Rotor Brake Kit by Wilwood®. This Brake kit will fit the Flex line kit # 220-12168, 220-7056. Wilwood brakes are custom engineered for your specific application, delivering high performance and reliable solutions to handle the most difficult braking tasks.

Drilled and slotted brake drumscasinobonus

drilled and slotted brake drums You may have to before you can post: click the register link above to proceed.
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OK, hope this is in the right place!
There's so many sub-forums here I'm never sure.
Someone that knows what to do and how to do it, not just someone with a drill press.
Does anybody know of a place in Colorado?
I can ship them to a hotrod shop in CA, but would prefer someone local first.
Why are you drilling brake drums?
It helps tremendously with cooling, eliminating fade, and stops the loss of braking power after going through water.
Racers have been doing it for many, many years.
I can send them to a place in CA that's been doing it since the 50's, but I'd like to find a local guy if possible.
There's a member here that has the machinery and could do it, I'm keeping him on my short list.
If he could do it for the same cost as shipping them to CA.
I learned about it on earlycj5.
Guys over there swear by it.
Drilling rotors and drums to help cooling is a myth.
The only thing on your list I can even remotely see being possible is the water thing, but I'm very skeptical of that too.
It probably made sense in the 50s when pads actually outgassed, but modern pads don't do this to any significant amount.
All you're doing is making the drums weaker, removing material that could be used to absorb heat, and reducing the surface area on which the pads can act to generate friction braking force.
Are you road-racing your CJ?
Guns are not the problem, guns are what allow the rest of us to resist them.
Water will drain out of a drum just fine, they are not sealed.
I would think it would be money much better spent with a disc brake conversion.
On their best day, four wheel drum brakes will not work as well as a set of wet disc brakes.
Drilling rotors and drums to help cooling is a myth.
The only thing on your list I can even remotely see being possible is the water thing, but I'm very skeptical of that too.
It probably made sense in the 50s would merit crystal cove and casino think pads actually outgassed, but modern pads don't do this to any significant amount.
All you're doing is making the drums weaker, removing material that could be used to absorb heat, and reducing the surface area on which the pads can act to generate friction braking force.
Are you road-racing your CJ?
The fact is: -Cross drilled holes degas brake pads and decrease rotor heat -reduces fade and make your braking system more efficient.
He may not be road racing his CJ, but it gives me comfort knowing that some people care about braking performance after they put big tires and lifts on 4x4's.
Cut the man some slack.
The fact is: -Cross drilled holes degas brake pads and decrease rotor heat -reduces fade and make your braking system more efficient.
He may not be road racing his CJ, but it gives me comfort knowing that some people care about braking performance after they put big tires and lifts on 4x4's.
Cut the man some slack.
What kind of precision are you looking for?
The tolerances really are not that important with drilling drums for vent holes click I would think any local machine shop would be able to drill these drums for you, for little money.
What kind of precision are you looking for?
The tolerances really are not that important with drilling drums for vent holes so I would think any local machine shop would be able to drill these drums for you, for little money.
I agree with this,Except,I don't see why you couldn't do it yourself.
Just use a nice sharp bit and either a drill press or even a hand drill.
I think the holes should be very slightly chamfered on the inside surface, too.
You want the holes very uniformly spaced.
I think the holes should be very slightly chamfered on the inside surface, too.
It's a brake drum,not rocket science.
Waste of time if you ask me.
The reason high performance cars have drilled and slotted rotors is for heat, that is correct.
The difference is these vehicles are high speed and cornering performance cars.
If you can go fast enough in a Jeep to need slotted rotors, you are on the wrong website.
Once again to reinstate, drums perform poorly in comparison, drilling them will make no difference.
And so it was that I, a wayward throwback to the Mesozoic, was enslaved as a circus freak to entertain you drunken monkeys.
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The difference is these vehicles are high speed and cornering performance cars.
If you can go fast enough in a Jeep to need slotted rotors, you are on the wrong website.
Once again to reinstate, drums perform poorly in comparison, drilling them will make no difference.
They seem to last alot longer and don't warp like a solid disc worked equally hard.
Heck they are even cheapie e-bay ones!
Drilling the drums will be a benefit.
I think you should do it and then do a tech article to post it here.
I would believe a group of CJ guys before just one mans opinion, its gotta help with cooling and fading, you'd be crazy not to think so.
Lots of long hills to come down in Colorado with those big ass tires.
Maybe its a waste of money but who cares?
Numerous other 4x4 projects could be argued as a waste of time too.
speaking. antikythera mechanism pin and slot for know 99% of the buyers will never drive them anywhere close to the capacity of the brake system, and people think they look cool.
Also, drilled rotors are lighter for less unsprung weight, which you WILL notice even in lower-intensity driving.
The fact is: -Cross drilled holes degas brake pads and decrease rotor heat -reduces fade and make your braking system more efficient.
Brake engineers seem to disagree with you: Darrick Dong; Director of Motorsports at Performance Friction: " This web page that tells you that drilling makes the disc run cooler is smoking crack.
Drilling diminishes a rotor's durability and cooling capacity.
Many of the rotors available in the aftermarket are nothing more than inexpensive offshore manufactured stock replacement rotors, cross drilled to appeal to the performance market.
They are not performance rotors and will have a corresponding high failure rate" Baer Brakes: "What are the benefits to Crossdrilling, Slotting, and Zinc-Washing my rotors?
However, with today's race pad technology, 'outgassing' is no longer much of a concern.
Slotted surfaces are what Baer recommends for track only use.
Slotted only rotors are offered as an option for any of Baer's offerings.
Well, unless your car is using brake pads from the '40s and 50s, not a read article lot.
Rotors were first drilled because early brake pad materials gave off drilled and slotted brake drums when heated to racing temperatures, a process known as "gassing out.
It was an effective solution, but today's friction materials do not exhibit the some gassing out phenomenon as the early pads.
Contrary to popular belief, they don't lower temperatures.
In fact, by removing weight from the rotor, they can actually cause temperatures to increase a little.
These holes create stress risers that allow the rotor to crack sooner, and make a mess of brake pads--sort of like a cheese grater rubbing against them at every stop.
Look at NASCAR or F1.
You would think that if drilling holes in the rotor was the hot ticket, these teams would be doing it.
Slotting rotors, on the other hand, might be a consideration if your sanctioning body allows for it.
Cutting thin slots across the face of the rotor can drilled and slotted brake drums help to clean the face of the brake pads over time, helping to reduce the glazing often found during high-speed use which can lower the coefficient of friction.
While there may still be a small concern over creating stress risers in the face of the rotor, if the slots are shallow and cut properly, the trade-off appears to be worth the risk.
Have you looked at a NASCAR rotor lately?
AP Racing: "Grooves improve 'cleaning' of the pad surfaces and result in a more consistent brake performance.
Grooved discs have a longer life than cross-drilled discs.
Lots of long hills to come down in Colorado with those big ass tires.
Maybe its a waste of money but who cares?
Numerous other 4x4 projects could be argued as a waste of time too.
I'm restoring a 1956 Willys CJ5, and the drilled drums is a mod that a lot of other old CJ5 drivers have done and recommend on the CJ5 forum.
I'm putting 11" brakes from a 1972 CJ5 on it, with everything new but the backing plates.
I'm not building anything radical like what most of you are used to, I just want a reliable old Jeep, that will stop good.
Just a trail putter.
I want to cruise the mountain trails, without shooting off the edge of one.
I beleive drilling drums is different than rotors.
A rotor is exposed a drum contains the heat.
Them holes have got to let some heat out of the drum.
I have thought of doing it myself, but will go to disks.
Drums and rotors are two different animals.
Never underestimate what what click and buy casino 2019 can hot rodders say.
Practical experience sometimes flies in the face of conventional wisdom, and even theoretical physics.
If the old timers say drilling your drums works, chances are it does.
Good luck finding someone, Rondog.
Them holes have got to let some heat out of the drum.
If the air inside the drum was hot, maybe.
Will the holes let more heat out of the drum material itself?
The miniscule increase in the drum's total surface area from drilling the holes is far to small to be of any benefit to cooling the drum itself.
I don't think it will hurt anything, but I don't believe it will help anything either.
Any machine shop should be able to do it.
I think the part about creating stress risers is valid and significant.
In the example pictures, the holes are spaced very evenly from each other and from other discontinuities in the material edges, lips.
That's why I think it would be stupid to just take your hand drill and start drilling.
Variations in the spacing will concentrate the stress, beyond the simple mechanical variation in material cross-section.
Well, I didn't intend to start some big ol' discussion about the pros and cons of it, I just wanted to know if anybody knew of someone around Denver that does it.
It seems to be such a popular mod on the ecj5 forum that I assumed it was a popular thing in the 4x4 world in general.
What's the first thing you think of when considering updating your '50s cars brakes?
There are many ways of adapting discs these days, the easiest of which is ordering a kit from one of our advertisers.
But what if nobody makes one for your car?
If you are building a mid-'5Os Mopar, I can assure that such is the case.
It certainly is with my '55 Plymouth wagon, and I'd bet with any year Nash, Hudson, Kaiser, Best online casino slots, or similar orphan.
After calling around and searching the web, I resigned myself to a lot of custom fabrication and junkyard searching.
Then I remembered a guy I'd met on the Internet click here a '55 Plymouth powered by a 440 Mopar.
What had he done for binders?
Bob McGee at likes to help out fellow '50s Mopar fans, and turned me on to C.
Topping in Long Beach, California, where he had his '55 drums drilled.
I checked out Topping's web site and learned all about drilling holes in brake drums.
When I called, I talked Vince Bunting, who gave me the whole scoop.
The company was founded in 1931 by C.
Topping to sell auto parts.
Topping later learned the drilling trick from a fellow named Mel Hamer, who came up with ventilatedif he drilled some holes in his brake drums the heat would escape drilled and slotted brake drums the car would stop better.
It worked so well, that all the drilled and slotted brake drums racers wanted him to do theirs also.
Apparently this became a well-kept secret, as nobody I mentioned the technique to had ever heard of it.
It was while he was working with Bill Stroppe on various Ford race car projects that a production car engineer told Hamer drilled drums would never work near as well as the new disc brakes they read more then developing.
Bunting figures that comment led to the reason Detroit never produced ventilated drums and why the rest of us know nothing about them.
The first question people ask is about water and dust.
If you've driven a drum brake equipped car through water you know braking is non-existent.
With holes in the drums, centrifugal force not only evacuates dust, but water immediately as well.
But the main benefit is the fact that when drums are vented properly, so as to eliminate balance and material integrity problems, they virtually eliminate fade, which is.
He figured drums in the first place.
Gasses are vented as well, as the holes create what amounts to a venturi effect, venting gases created by compression of air between the shoes and drum that would otherwise be trapped in a stock, unvented drum, hindering braking efficiency.
This also holds true with disc brakes believe it or notso venting is beneficial here, too.
Another benefit is reduced unsprung weight, which improves ride quality.
Surprisingly, a brake disc weighs three times what a in mississippi casinos and up 18 does, and calipers are four times heavier than a wheel cylinder.
Cars designed with discs take all those extra pounds approximately 60 total drilled and slotted brake drums consideration in their suspension system.
Therefore, adding discs to the Plymouth would likely roughen up the ride quite a bit if I didn't change the springs and shock absorbers to compensate for the extra pounds.
I can't think of an easier, less expensive way to upgrade your stock brakes.
All you have to do is box up your drums and send them to C.
They will have them back to you in just a couple of days.
It would be a good idea to have them checked for cracks or excessive wear first.
They also supply a wide variety of master cylinders, including the modern dual chamber model I decided to replace my stock one with.
Oh, they will also ventilate disc brakes, if you are already so equipped.
Give them a call for more info.
Do it yourself 1 Brake drums are bolted together in front and rear pairs, then placed on the rollers of Vince's articulated jig.
Note how the holes fan out on an angle, making the venting process much more efficient.
Nothing could be further from the truth.
Nothing could be further from the truth.
How about "Drilling the drums causes a 1 kiloton nuclear explosion.
Ok i can buy in to the drilled drums and roters, but why not bolt em up on the engine stand and start drilling.
The patterns not that drilled and slotted brake drums />BURNTFISH - That's the hotrod shop I was referring to in the original post.
Juzzme - I'm anal enough that I don't want to fawk 'em up myself, and I'd like the holes drilled reasonably evenly, so the balance of the drums isn't thrown too far off.
I'm actually PM'ing with a machinist on the CJ5 forum about this right now.
Maybe we'll get it worked out.
The fact is: -Cross drilled holes degas brake pads and decrease rotor heat -reduces fade and make your braking system more efficient.
He may not be road racing his CJ, but it gives me comfort knowing that some people care about braking performance after they put big tires and lifts on 4x4's.
Cut the man some slack.
Purely for looks - the general population still thinks cross drilled rotors are an upgrade.
Take a look at almost any professional race car and you will not see cross drilled rotors on them Edit - Jake beat me to it and I did not read the whole thread first This has been a fun conversation.
I know why alot of shops find it easy to upsell.
Now off to the next debate talk about Hijacks OP asked an easy enough question, WHERE could he get this done, not IF he should get it done Tired of being tired.
If I find them tolerable, I tolerate them; if I find them too obnoxious, I break them.
I am free because I alone am morally responsible for everything I do.
Sleep Well America, My Marine Has Got Your Back.
Proud Parent of a Sailor, in the United States Navy.
Gonna take 'em by Denver Machine near Coors Field, anybody familiar with them?
Gonna take 'em by Denver Machine near Coors Field, anybody familiar with them?
USPS flat rate boxes are only a myth, something that clever salesmen thought up to part suckers with their cash a little faster.
There is no benefit in using USPS to ship anything anywhere, it is far easier, safer and more efficient to take your own stuff wherever it needs to go, especially when that place is Alabama.
I have mailed many flat drilled and slotted brake drums boxes.
I still think it is a waste of time and money.
Drums and rotors are two different animals.
Never underestimate what old hot rodders say.
Practical experience sometimes flies in the face of conventional wisdom, and even theoretical physics.
If the old timers say drilling your drums works, chances are it does.
Good luck finding someone, Rondog.
My brakes were better when 11 inch drum all the way around than disced and now are once again better.
Good luck rondog had I known about this when I was building my old jeeps I would have given continue reading a whirl.
I have mailed many flat rate boxes.
You can only get one drum in a box.
Although I'd like to give him my business helluva nice guy and a great machinistI gotta find myself the best deal I can.
If I can get 'em done locally for less, I gotta do it.
Gonna take 'em by Denver Machine near Coors Field, anybody familiar with them?
I've worked with and for the owners, they're good people, but the shop is definitely geared towards large scale industrial work.
Not sure if they'll take a small walk-in private job like this, but if they do I'm sure they'll do good work.
Don't know about pricing though.
May as well add my two cents on the drilling idea in general.
I can't see how it would help any.
As said, it's not going to help in cooling, and I can't see there being enough braking energy applied in an old CJ to create enough "off-gassing" to be of benefit, if you even believe it helps that.
Good luck though, and definitely post up your results.
Murray's Toys: 76 FJ40, 00 Toyota MR2, 13 Triumph Tiger 800XC, 07 KTM 450EXC, 05 Suzuki SV1000S, 12 Yeti SB66c, too many skis to list.
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DuraGo® is the professional’s preferred choice for quality, safety and service in premium brake rotors and drums. Each of our parts are engineered to meet all requirements of fit, form and function. To ensure quality, we use multiple vane configurations and castings engineered to SAEJ431 metallurgical standards.
Street Performance Drilled and Slotted Rotor Brake Kit by Wilwood®. This Brake kit will fit the Flex line kit # 220-12168, 220-7056. Wilwood brakes are custom engineered for your specific application, delivering high performance and reliable solutions to handle the most difficult braking tasks.
The four kinds of brake rotors are: Drilled Only – Drilled brake rotors are easy to recognize because they have a series of holes drilled into the metal. Slotted Only – Slotted rotors have slots, which look like lines in the metal. Drilled & Slotted – Drilled and slotted brake rotors combine the drill marking and slot marking.

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